Manikarnika Ghat

Manikarnika Ghat is the cremation ground at the heart of Varanasi and a sensitive entry among the places to visit in Varanasi. This guide explains its history and how to visit respectfully.

Manikarnika Ghat is Varanasi's principal cremation ground, often called the Maha-Smashaan, and it is also a pilgrimage site. The name means 'jewel of the ear': legend says Shiva's earring fell into a sacred well made by Vishnu, linking the site with moksha, or release from rebirth.

Wikipedia reports the ghat was first built in stone around 1372 and rebuilt in 1735 under Bajirao Peshwa, in 1791 under Ahilyabai Holkar and in 1912 by Raja Moti Chand, who raised the platform above flood level. The cremation fires remain lit continuously. Nearby are the Manikarnika-Chakra-Pushkarini tank and temples such as Tarakeshwar Mahadev and Ratneshwar Mahadev. This is an active place of mourning, not an attraction staged for visitors.

Most travellers see it from a boat on the river or from a distance on the steps. Wikivoyage advises keeping quiet and respectful at the cremation ghats and warns of scams in which people claim a fee is needed to watch, so be wary of anyone demanding money and hire guides cautiously. Do not photograph cremations or mourners. There is no ticket, and it is open at all hours, but mornings and late afternoon are quieter than midday.