Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

Chandni Chowk is Old Delhi's great bazaar, laid out under Shah Jahan and still packed with shops, food stalls and places of worship. Here is how to explore it and when to go.

Chandni Chowk was laid out in the mid-17th century as the main avenue of Shah Jahan's new capital, Shahjahanabad. It runs west from the Lahori Gate of the Red Fort to the Fatehpuri Masjid. Its name, 'moonlit square', is traditionally linked to a pool that once reflected the moon in the middle of the street. Today it is the spine of Old Delhi's wholesale and retail trade, with specialist lanes branching off on both sides.

Dariba Kalan is known for silver jewellery, Kinari Bazaar for wedding trims, and Nai Sarak for books and stationery. Khari Baoli, at the western end, is one of Asia's largest spice markets, and Paranthe Wali Gali is famous for its fried flatbreads.

The avenue is also lined with places of worship, among them the Digambar Jain Lal Mandir, the Gauri Shankar Temple, Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib (built where Guru Tegh Bahadur was executed in 1675), the Sunehri Masjid and the Fatehpuri Masjid. After a redevelopment of the 1.3 km main road, the stretch from the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid has been a non-motorised zone from 9 am to 9 pm, with wide pedestrian walkways. Cycle-rickshaws are the easiest way to get along the side lanes.

Crowds are heavy, so keep valuables secure and wear comfortable shoes. Chandni Chowk and Lal Quila metro stations are at either end. Most shops open late morning, and many markets keep a weekly closing day.